Turenne

Turenne is one of the most appealing medieval towns in the Corrèze.  Crescent-shaped and clustered on the cliffside, the town was the last independent feudal fiefdom in France, under the absolute rule of the La Tour d'Auvergne family until 1738.

A painting of Turenne, as it looked many years ago.

A photo of Turenne taken from an adjoining hill, as we drive up to the town.

The town is filled with beautiful medieval stone buildings, and a few modern touches.

The moment I saw these hearts, I knew I liked this town!  They are my signature hearts.

Beautiful cast iron designs on this balcony railing.

 

Narrow streets and lots of inclines to walk.

The big tree in the upper middle of this picture is where the Château de Turenne is located.  It's a long way up...

 



 

Medieval architecture is solid and has withstood the test of time.

 



 

 

I wonder how the mail gets delivered.  The roads are narrow, twisty and the front doors are often on the side instead of where we think they should be.  But then, like in the Middle Ages, everyone knows each other and neighbours are as familiar as a brother.

 







When an entire town is made of this beautiful stone, we start overlooking how truly special it is to find such a place.  France is absolutely full of these medieval towns.

  What beautiful signage for a restaurant.

Elegant entrance to a restaurant.



 

This little boutique, Atelier des Emaux, housed women's fine art jewellery: enamel, gold, precious stones.  Absolutely stunning creations designed and made by Alexandra Chevalier Baj, a local artisan who has reached the pinnacle of her craft.
 



 

 

Almost in the middle of the "lower" town sits the Notre Dame Collegiate - Saint Pantaléon.

 







It dates from the 16th-century.

 

 

Show-stopper chandelier.

 

Pipe organ

With the sun streaming through the stained glass windows, everything looked very holy, very peaceful.

 

The choice of flowers is what attracted my eye.

 

Words that have lasted over 2000 years.

Another very unusual chandelier.

 

After a morning of touring, it was time to check out one of the restaurants.  We chose La Vicomté de Turenne, a bar restaurant recommended by one of the women in a little boutique nearby.

 



 



Bread and wine.

We both ordered the "plat du jour" which was a generous helping of chicken pieces on a skewer with a rich chanterelle mushroom sauce.  There was a square portion of scalloped potatoes, mashed parsnips and carrot, a sliver of beet, and a homemade cheese crisp.

 

For dessert Karl had a variety of berries with a scoop of ice-cream and the exotic garnish of a physalis fruit.

I had a Normandy apple pie with whipped cream and a physalis fruit as well.

 



I couldn't resist taking this photo of a medieval feast! 

This meal was more expensive than most, but it was very delicious and we are in a very touristy area.

This cross is at the foot of the Turenne Castle.  Onwards and Upwards!

Karl at the early stages of his ascent.

The Viscounty of Turenne had Turenne at its centre, where the viscounts lived, and controlled an area that spread through Lower Limousin, Upper Quercy and Southern Perigord.  In its heyday, Turenne ruled over 100,000 inhabitants, 111 parishes and 1200 villages and hamlets.  The building of the castle and its ramparts took over four centuries to complete.

Taking a rest during the 139-step climb.

 



Almost halfway up, and already the scenery is incredible.



 

 

 

 

We have reached the "summit" and there is a 360 degree view with the town of Turenne lying at the castle's feet.



 

We have arrived at the "Guards Room", in the keep.  It is here that the main entrance to the fortified castle was situated.  It is called "The Keep" or "The Clock Tower" or "The Treasury Tower".  The latter because Turenne made its own coinage.  Minting of money was a special right Turenne enjoyed which, together with the right of administering justice, of being free of taxes paid to the crown and of being permitted to sell titles, made Turenne a very rich and pleasant place to live.

What a magnificent door.



 

There is a collection of small wooden chairs with lids in their seats.  They are from the period of Louis XIII and the boxes were to contain salt.  This was an important commodity and chairs such as these would have been kept close to the fire to keep the salt dry.

 

 

The fireplace is four metres wide and standing in it you can (barely) see a copper barrel (lower right) in which the hot embers were saved.

 



"K" is for knight, and Karl definitely has a huge interest in them.

 

Even the sword says "Carlos.V".  I often call Karl by the nickname of Carlos, reminiscent of a visit to Mexico one year when we went by the names of "Carlos y Margarita".

Karl has decided to stay here and make it his home.  Au revoir!

 

I proceed to the 2nd part of the visit - the Garden.  In the past, this area was built as part of the castle and lived in.  Now it is filled with flowers.  

The garden shed which is still used by the live-in gardener.

 

The garden was designed in the 1920s and it links "The Keep" to the "Tour de Cesar", a tower we see behind me.

"Life is like a bicycle.  You must move forward not to lose your balance." ~ Albert Einstein.  There were similar quotes throughout the garden.

 

 

 

"La Tour de Cesar" with its crenellation top.  Karl crowned the pleasure of the garden visit by climbing to the top of this precariously positioned tower.  There are 64 uneven, and occasionally wet, stone steps forming the ancient spiral staircase which leads to the top.  The reward is a spectacular view.  However, Karl met up with thousands of flying ants at the top, a phenomenon that occurs every year at this time and lasts only about 15 days.  He said there were so many he could barely inhale, so he quickly came back down where I brushed ants off his clothes and from his hair.

 

The "Tour de Cesar" served as a watch tower for the castle.  From this location you can see four "departments": Corrèze, Cantal, Lot and Dordogne.  On a clear day you can see the "Monts d'Auvergne".  Even without being at the top of the tower, the view is breath taking!  It was well worth climbing the long staircase to be treated to this panoramic view.  It's like being a bird and seeing everything from a lofty vantage point.



 

 

After buying the castle in 1738, Louis XV promptly ordered that it be completely dismantled.  However much of the stonework, and in particular some fireplaces, found their way into other buildings in the village and can still be seen.  The King also withdrew all the privileges Turenne had enjoyed.  Without these or its castle, Turenne gradually became a beau village with remnants of a remarkable history.



Our last stop in the village was the Chapelle des Capucins, (left) dating from the 18th century.

 

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