It's quiet here tonight. The doors are locked, the windows closed, and the lights dimmed. The house has been put to bed. As I sit in front of my laptop, I hear the soft hum of the fridge and Karl's steady breathing in his dream world. Our bags are packed and we've managed to squeeze in all those extras we didn't even remember buying: soaps, dishtowels, spices, a new wallet. We'll be leaving early tomorrow morning, heading for Paris.
We get attached to a place after staying for a couple of months. I'll miss that towel warmer I used every time I showered, the wonderful books in the library - so many left unread, and the rose bushes growing next to the living and dining room windows where I cut fresh buds every day for the table.
We have taken lots of photos and written long blog posts so that we would remember everything. But how can words recap the depth, height and breadth of a place! We have gone deep into a cave to gondolier on a tranquil river, climbed multiple steps to the pinnacle of old ruins to see the lush green land stretched before us, and travelled thousands of kilometers throughout the Massif Central watching the topography change from the ridge of ancient volcanoes to the twisty roads that wind their way down deep valleys.
We've heard myths of the devil carrying human souls in a bag, and legendary figures laying siege to entire towns. We've stared into the unblinking eyes of a raptor and watched birds of prey soar on outstretched wings. How we've enjoyed the re-enactment of brave knights and prancing horses in medieval life. We've seen the power generated by a huge hydro-electric dam, the majesty of bygone castles, still magnificent in their ruined state, and appreciated the serene peace of a fragrant garden. We took time to sit and listen to gentle strings, and to café music on time-honoured accordions.
But being the foodies that we are, it is the exploration and discovery of the French food that made a significant impression. The bistros, the beautiful restaurants, the more simple and wholesome ones - they all had something special to offer. Maybe we weren't won over with the "tête-de-veau" or the Salers Gentiane, but we loved the wild cèpe mushrooms, the flaugnarde and the steak haché. At the top of the food chain, the highlight of my trip was the time I spent with Marine in her kitchen, watching her prepare an entire meal and listening to all her advice, hints and secrets. That will remain for me an unforgettable experience!
More than all the sites and sounds and tastes that have tickled our senses, it will be the people who will figure prominently in the postcard of this region in our book of memories. Starting with Annie and Peter, our landlords who were so welcoming upon our arrival, to Nanou who made us lemon and sugar crêpes every Sunday morning at the market, to the Town Crier who added colour and voice to the rhythm of the weekly village happenings. There was also Monsieur Christian who cut the lawn and always looked super busy yet had time for greetings and a smile, and the Mémère at Restaurant Gouttenegre whom we never met but watched her cook in the background, producing old-fashioned and delicious meals. There were also the ones without names who still made an impression: the Monsieur with white hair and clever scissors who shaped his hedges into works of art, the octogenarian who collected war-time lighters and coins, and the talented man who carved wooden replicas of blacksmiths and windmills. And who could forget the feisty woman with a sore back who was so animated about the things she had for sale at the vide grenier. They all meld together to give an impression of a time, a place and a people.
Best of all are the acquaintances who have gone beyond "La Bise" and become friends. Marine and Ana are women who have become near and dear to us and we look forward to a long-lasting relationship, despite the distance that sets us apart. Plans are already well underway to have Ana's daughter come to Vancouver next summer. We leave for Canada with yet another facet of French life revealed to us. We will search for Cantal cheese at "Les Amis du Fromage", taste honey that will trigger memories of wild flowers and buzzing bees in the French countryside, watch our eagles soar and remember another sky and another breeze. We are not saddened by our departure, but rather appreciative of every moment we spent here. It was an education, a discovery and a delight.
***There are many things to be grateful "for" but, as I ripen with the seasons of life, the many reasons blend into a sacred mystery. And, most deeply, I realize that living gratefully is its own blessing. |
Michael Mahoney
|
Tuesday, October 6, 2015
Grateful
Celebration Continues
We went for dinner last night at our friends' home, Marine and Ana. Marine prepared a delicious Swiss fondue using authentic Swiss ingredients. We opened a "pétillant" and toasted to health, happiness, long life. What a great evening! Of course they didn't let us leave without providing us with a care package for the road: samples of Marine's amazing chocolates, and orange rinds dipped in chocolate. I'm sure they'll be gone before reaching the airport...
Today is my "official" birthday, so we headed to a restaurant we've only heard about recently: "Les Contes de Bruyères" in Servières-le-Château. It's run by German proprietors and they were so friendly. Came to chat for a long while, speaking to us in German, and discussing topics as varied as where to eat a good cut of sanglier to the incredible influx of refugees in Germany and its impact. Conversation was both serious and fun, but all of it interesting.
We felt among family, given that the portrait of their grand-father was hanging on the wall next to our table. He reminded us a great deal of our Uncle Gunter!
The meal was great too!
A creamy celery soup. Very lovely!
Enjoying a Kir Royale with lunch, probably my last one in France for this trip.
The salad was so fresh and summery: butter lettuce, lots of green onions and green pepper, sliced zucchini, sliced tomatoes, all topped with ham that they inject with special spices. SO yummy!
The main course was white beans with a Bratwurst sausage straight from Thuringia, Germany, renowned for its excellent sausage. The owners were there visiting for the last 9 days and brought some back. Served with hot mustard and a red sauce with a Moroccan flavour.
Big piece of brownie for dessert, with a candle and good wishes!
Aren't birthdays fun?
A couple of hours packing and we were done!
So went October 6, 2015.
***
Sunday, October 4, 2015
Super Sunday!
Sunday started like all the other Sundays here in La-Roche-Canillac, with the market in front of the church. It's a tiny market, and it got progressively smaller over the last month as the tourists left. Only a few die-hard salespeople remain. It will close at the end of October with a "fête" for all the locals.
Nanou makes us some wonderful crêpes with lemon and sugar. Her husband, the Town Crier, prepares to announce all the news and weather reports.
Each week there is a different focus, and today it was all the needlework. Women showcased their quilts, lace, embroidery, and doll clothes.
I examine a piece like this and wonder at all the hours that were dedicated to produce such an exquisite piece of lace, a special pattern from Tulle.
Quilters always have a lot in common! I fit right in.
A doll's coat made almost 100 years ago from an adult's fur coat. It was lined with satin and stitched with great precision.
We bought our fruit from this gentleman every week. I can tell you that the grapes are sweeter and tastier than any we've ever tasted! He had Muscat grapes and some very tiny sweet ones.
Once we had bought everything we needed at the market and greeted all our friends and acquaintances, we headed out for déjeuner. We went to Le Sablier du Temps in Solignac, a "suburb" of Argentat.
Along with our beer and Kir, we ate a delicious pork pâté with slices of country bread. We did not indulge in the little boudin sausages.
We both had the fish broth entrée with noodles in the bottom, and two huge prawns dipped in a sesame batter on the side.
I had the "duck à l'orange" with yam purée, zucchini, cauliflower, parsnip and carrot.
Karl had the trout on a bed of lentils with lardons on the side.
Our table was beautifully set with a gray tablecloth and pretty flowers. We overlooked a huge garden that would be lovely to sit in during the summer!
Karl had a "volcano" of ice-cream with loads of walnuts.
I had the "fig soup" with a scoop of ice-cream and graham crackers crumbled all around the plate. The crunchiness was needed because the dessert was very sweet.
***
We went for a long car ride in the afternoon to get a last view of the local scenery. I'll never get used to those winding and twisty roads. Probably not a good idea to try them out on a full stomach.
Later in the evening, we started to celebrate my 63rd birthday, which is not due for another few days. Still, this was a great day to open my "gift" which was a bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne. I've been wanting to try it for years, and finally this was the opportunity!
There comes a time when "gifts" like jewelry and other material things just don't mean all that much. Of course I am speaking for myself. I prefer indulging in something I've dreamed of for years and finally giving it a try.
Karl didn't want to lose one drop, and he managed very well. He graduates to the level of sommelier!
Of course if he had his sword handy he would have "sabled" the champagne. Unfortunately, it's back in Port Moody.
Big sigh.
We put together a wonderful assortment of cheese, olives, baguette and a big basket of fresh strawberries and grapes bought at the market this morning.
One sip of this nectar and I was in heaven! There were stars twinkling in my mouth!
Happy birthday to me!
***
We finished off this Super Sunday by settling in front of the television to watch another episode of Downton Abbey.
***
Sidebar
Veuve Clicquot Champagne is described as: Pale lemon with fine bubbles; the nose is filled with aromas of apple, pear, toast and brioche; the palate is extra-dry and medium to full body with flavours that match the aromas. - LCBO
History
Philippe's son, François Clicquot, married Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin in 1798 and died in 1805, leaving his widow (veuve in French) in control of a company variously involved in banking, wool trading, and Champagne production. She became the first woman to take over a Champagne house. Under Madame Clicquot's guidance, the firm focused entirely on the last, to great success.
During the Napoleonic Wars, Madame Clicquot made strides in establishing her wine in royal courts throughout Europe, notably that of Imperial Russia, thus becoming the first Champagne house to ship Champagne through the blockade to Russia in 1811. During this time, she also gave Champagne to the Prussian guards enforcing the blockade and the soldiers opened the champagne with their swords, so started the technique of sabring Champagne. By the time she died in 1866 Veuve Clicquot had become both a substantial Champagne house and a respected brand. Easily recognised by its distinctive bright yellow labels, the wine holds a royal warrant from Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom.
Since 1987 the Veuve Clicquot company has been part of the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy group of luxury brands, and today owns a controlling interest in New Zealand's Cloudy Bay Vineyards - Wickipedia
I visited the Château de Brissac back in June of 2010, and peered at the very large portrait of Veuve Clicquot. Should you wish to read up on that château, you can connect to my blog from that trip.
In the Portrait Gallery, you find this very large portrait of the world famous Veuve Clicquot, one of the great names of French Champagne. This extraordinary strong-willed and talented lady became a widow early in her marriage. Well known for her business acumen and her determination, she decided then to take over the family business and turn it into an international enterprise.
***
Saturday, October 3, 2015
Limoges
We loved Limoges! It's a big city, bigger than what we look for when we want to rent a house, but the city has beautiful architecture and a vibrancy that you don't find in smaller centres. Lots of working people wearing suits and carrying satchels, all determined to get somewhere fast.
The capital of the Limousin has two hearts: the old Cité and the rival château on an adjacent rise, now the commercial center of the modern city. The Cité was ravaged by the Black Prince during the Hundred Years' War and today is a quiet place of half-timbered houses and narrow streets. We limited our visit to the Quartier Historique du "Château."
Karl even found a hobby store with models of trains, boats and planes - and quad-copters! I could have lost him here for a few hours, but I dragged him away.
We visited "Église Saint-Pierre" and thought it was the most beautiful church we've seen on this trip. What incredible stained glass! There is the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne which may well be more spectacular, but we didn't go in that corner of the city. Too much to see in one day!
Large pipe organ.
It had a statue of St. Antoine and a reliquary of sacred bones.
 |
| Pavillon du Vendurier |
A big shopping centre "Lafayette", just like in Paris.
The weather has been fickle with very rainy days followed by sun-filled days. Today was about 24*, but in the sun with the reflection from the white walls, it was closer to 30*. We soon had to strip a few layers!
We stopped for lunch in the Italian sector on rue Charles-Michels, at "Les Gondols". Not far away was the San Marco Ristorante and a few steps further yet, a pizzeria. It all felt very "movie set". When I went inside the restaurant, I noticed about five very serious men sitting together at a corner table, no doubt "their table". One man was wearing a black shirt and had slicked back hair. Were they actors? Looked very authentic.
As our waiter was bringing us bread, his cell phone rang. The ring tone was the theme music from "The Godfather". Karl and I burst out laughing, thinking it was all very surreal!
Very romantic crackers!
I had the veal scallopini with ham and mozzarella cheese in a mushroom sauce, a pistou (not pesto) taglatelle and baked tomato. The food was definitely authentic Italian!
Karl had the veal scallopini with eggplant and Sicilian sauce, tomato taglatelle and baked tomato.
One of the BEST tiramisù, bar none!
***
It was not until the 1770s that Limoges became synonymous with porcelain. The legendary local ware is on display at the superb Musée National Adrien-Dubouché.
This creative piece of art is in the front courtyard of the Museum
Can you see the water jets coming out of this porcelain head fountain? It's called "The Source". Think about it. Very clever.
In front of the museum, "Une Suite" highlights contemporary ceramic art. The monumental white concrete stele is covered with 600 enamelled porcelain bowls.
This section presents the stages of ceramic manufacturing. Period machines, illustrating the industrial heritage of Limoges, are displayed alongside contemporary designs. It helped that we watched a 20-minute film that explained everything before starting out on the museum tour.
This soup tureen is made in pieces before being assembled.
Very delicate and specific tools.
Moulds.
The colour palette.
The 12 stages of producing a quality plate setting! No wonder these dishes are so expensive.
There are also "stickers" that are added for certain patterns, then put through a series of steps to ensure that everything is integral. Fascinating.
More than 10,000 exhibits trace the history of ceramics in this Museum, 3 storeys packed full of pieces.
For centuries, China was the only country to manufacture porcelain.
Faience, or tin-glazed earthenware, was immensely popular in Europe during the XVIIth - XVIIIth centuries.
 |
| La liseuse (The reader) |
Art Nouveau.
Contemporary Design (kimonos)
Porcelain dolls, usually just heads and hands, sometimes feet.
The high point of the displays would be the Grain de riz (rice grain) service, shown in the Salon d'honneur, the epitome of XIXth century Limoges craftsmanship.
The many contemporary designs illustrate the vitality of Limoges porcelain in tableware as well as in fine arts.
This is the Museum's latest acquisition, a quill and ink holder with a chestnut (chataigne) centre.
***
Even after leaving the museum, the streets are filled with stores that sell various pieces of porcelain.
Then there are the stores that repair damaged porcelain.
An antique music box.
***
We weren't too hungry when we got home, so we just opened a "pétillant" (think pink champagne) from Saumur to accompany a plate of baguette slices, cherry tomatoes, lucques olives and Comté cheese. Delicious!
An absolutely wonderful day!
***
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)